Before I left for Venice, I asked a native for recommendations on what to see and do. His advice was, "just get lost." I thought that was hopelessly lame advice. I mean, who goes to Italy to get lost? I wanted art, music, architecture and food!
But when I got to Venice, I realized that he was actually right. So, I wandered the back streets, off the beaten path, far from Rialto Bridge, Murano, the scads of cruise ship day trippers, and the Grand Canal.
Down narrow cobblestone alleyways that seemed like ancient mazes. In a place, where even something as basic as photography shop can look so beautiful, how could I not roam?
Accommodations in Venice are spendy; supply and demand dictates that bargains are few and far between, so I did something different this time. I rented an apartment in a very old building overlooking a small canal.
In the mornings, I cooked eggs, and brewed coffee on a hot plate in a Bialetti. I listened to the church bells, the canal boats, and the workmen chattering below in Italian. In the evenings, I visited a little shop where the shopkeeper didn't speak a word of English. I bought fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, homemade pasta, pesto, bread, and the best Parmesan I've ever had. It was amazing what I could cook on that single burner!
It was simple and lovely, and I wouldn't want to "do" Venice any other way.
Labels: food, italy, travel, venice